Innovative Way to Taste Wines at Avant Tapas in Santa Ynez Valley

Joe Padilla, the proprietor of Avant Tapas, is forward-thinking. With 20 years experience in the wine and hospitality business, he had the creative vision to buy into a custom crush facility, then create a tapas restaurant and wine bar next to it--a vibrant, fun place to taste wine paired with fresh cuisine.

One wall of windows overlooks the state-of-the-art custom crush facility where 30 wineries make their wine. They have use of the best machinery and technology, including a lab and enology team. Terravant, the custom crush facility, also makes private label wines for big-name customers like Whole Foods and Winn-Dixie, plus their own Insomnia #16 is the best-selling wine in the US.

Along an adjacent wall in the stylish space is a row of high-tech wine dispensers offering pours of 15 highly-acclaimed wineries like Ken Brown, Hitching Post and Sort This Out Cellars. Behind-the-scenes, argon tanks are connected to each wine bottle, with the neutral gas preventing oxygen from contacting the surface of the wine, keeping it as fresh as newly opened wine. On weekends, Avant Tapas is so busy, there is one employee who just switches out wine bottles!


With a swipe card, you can sample a full pour, half or quarter pour. This ingenious wine wall is a lot of fun--we were able to sample 6 wines between us, without impairing our driving. We ordered three tapas--a generous beet and pistachio salad, artichoke pizza with a perfect chewy crust and baked brie. We appreciated the freshness of the ingredients--Joe told us produce is purchased at the local farmer's market or local producers. All the beef, chicken and pork is sourced from Santa Barbara County. We each took home a doggie bag for lunch next day from our very reasonable lunch at Avant Tapas. We will definitely be back! With grape harvest coming up, this will be THE place to watch the fermentation and bottling process.
                                     
Read more about Avant Tapas, including hours and location: herehttp://www.avantwines.com/

A Sunset Rare & Reserve Wine Tasting

The sun smiled on the 10th Annual California Wine Festival--three days of ocean front wine, music, and food. We were able to stop in briefly to the Sunset Rare & Reserve tasting on Friday, July 19th. With the colorful antique Carousel as a backdrop, the Sunset Rare & Reserve tasting offered proprietor's reserves, end-of-vintage and award-winning wines, along with live jazz and appetizers from local restaurants. My favorites: the spoons of lobster bisque from Fish Enterprise and the juicy nuggets of beef from Holdren's.


At the Festival entrance, Leticia Vineyard & Winery was pouring their Brut Cuvée, their finest reserve bottling of their méthode champenoise sparkling wine. Among the wonderful wines we tasted were those of Carol Shelton, who is said to be the most awarded winemaker in the United States. She has been Winemaker of the Year numerous times and her "Wild Thing" Zinfandel was recently awarded 92 points in the latest issue of Wine Spectator. Carol was enthusiastic about her Petit Sirah, saying that she discovered that "splashing" the juice was the secret to her success. I've heard of macroaeration being used during pump-over for a softening effect on tannins, but the crush of people around her booth made it impossible to carry on a conversation. No wonder she had a crowd at her table, considering the deliciousness of her wines!

Among the many other wineries of note, wonderful wines were being poured from Hearst Ranch Winery, whose east-side Paso Robles vineyards and winery have been producing wines with big scores, like their 95 Point 2010 "Pico Creek" Merlot. Also, Hammersky Vineyards, with their rich, complex wines from westside Paso Robles. It was a shame to have to leave early and not taste through the stellar line-up of wineries, but that leaves even more to anticipate for the California Wine Festival 2014!
Visit their website at: www.californiawinefestival.com

Santa Ynez's Refugio Ranch Beauty

Refugio Ranch hosted a wine biz party last Thursday at their bucolic Santa Ynez ranch. Refugio Ranch owners Kevin and Niki Gleason were the generous hosts, providing a spit-roasted Berkshire pig, watermelon-and-tomato salad, cornbread, bread-and-butter pickles, and baked beans to pair with their portfolio of luscious wines. Wine industry folk enjoyed live music, great wine and the opportunity to soak in the views of the 415-acre estate, which were particularly compelling with the golden summer sun slanting across the vineyards.


In March, Inside Wine Santa Barbara hosted a picnic at the view point of Refugio Ranch (read post) on a picture-perfect day. Last week's Refugio Ranch Pig Roast was an opportunity to enjoy the sunset over the property and to see the ranch house. Kevin (at left) and his wife Niki spent two years scouring the Central Coast wine country for the ideal property and they found it in the south end of the Santa Ynez Valley, with diverse terrain and microclimates to grow a range of varietals.

Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Rousanne are planted along the river on the warmer valley floor. Sangiovese, Petite Sirah and two blocks of Syrah are planted on the hills near the largest pond. Four blocks of Syrah, Grenache, Malvasia Bianca and another block of Roussanne surround the ranch house, beautifully laid out to enhance the vegetation and curves of the natural landscape. The vineyards are meticulously tended by Vineyard Manager Ruben Solorzano; the grapes are hand-harvested in the cool of night, hand-selected, then crafted into wines of finesse by winemaker Ryan Deovlet.

We had the chance to talk with winemaker Ryan, who was talking technique with winemaker Michael Roth of Martian Winery. We also were given a tour of the living quarters by Kevin Gleason, including the oil paintings of his son Max, Creative Director of Refugio Ranch and a professional artist, who designs the labels for Refugio Ranch wines. The master bedroom on the second floor and the kitchen look out to this panorama--a pretty nice place to sit and enjoy a glass of Refugio Ranch Barbareño!

Refugio Ranch was pouring their:
2012 Agua Dulce de Refugio (100% Malvasia Bianca), light and refreshing, with a bit of spritz
2011 "Refugio Ranch" Sauvignon Blanc (20% Semillon, 80% Sauvignon Blanc), one of my favorite Refugio Ranch wines, with a round, smooth mouth-feel
2010 Tiradora (100% Sauvignon Blanc), awarded 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
2011 "Refugio Ranch" Viognier, if you've found Viognier blowsy and over-ripe--try this Viognier--it's restrained and delicate
2010 Ineseño (60% Roussanne, 40% Viognier), awarded 91 points by the Rhone Report
2010 Barbareño (74% Syrah, 26% Petite Sirah) Syrah was given a bigger role in this vintage
2009 Barbareño (65% Syrah, 35% Petite Sirah) awarded 91 points by the Rhone Report; a lovely sipping wine that develops well in the glass


As a slight evening chill began to set in, a fire was lit and we made our own s'mores. Nicole Carnevale, Refugio Ranch Sales Manager, brought out a special treat to pair with dessert--the Refugio Ranch 2012 Nectár. A dessert wine made from hand selected clusters of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Malvasia Bianca with a small amount of residual sugar, the wine is lightly sweet, aromatic, with a long finish. The wine is made with the Vin de Paille or passito method, where the grapes are dried for about 2 1/2 weeks on straw mats to concentrate their flavor. This wine is normally only available at the tasting room.


The next day, we stopped by the Refugio Ranch tasting room conveniently located in Los Olivos at 2990 Grand Avenue. The historic building dates back to the 1880s. Much of the construction material was re-purposed from the original building, keeping the rustic feel even with the modern updating.

Click here for tasting room hours and more information.

It's July! That means it's time to visit Buttonwood Farm Winery and Vineyard in the Santa Ynez wine country for their fabulous peaches--carefully tended by orchard manager Fred Munch. The peaches are his babies and they get special pampering, rewarding his tender care by developing beautiful flavor and color. We bought three boxes so we can indulge in eating them out-of-hand and baking up lovely peachy desserts.

The Buttonwood farm produces a cornucopia of culinary delights, including organic herbs;  fruits for Buttonwood's line of handmade preserves, salsas and sauces; olives for their estate olive oil; cut flowers; and summer vegetables--oh, yes--and the sustainably grown Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Malbec for their lovely food-friendly wines.

Try the following recipe for the Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard peaches:

• Warm Peaches With Chile and Maple Syrup

Don't miss Buttonwood's All Farm Dinners in August! The farm-to-table feasts are held in the grassy knoll in the midst of their 39-acre vineyard, next to a peaceful pond and a short walk from the top of the hill where one can take in a panoramic view of Santa Ynez Valley. The dinners are created from Buttonwood's farm-raised meat, farm-grown fruits and vegetables--including those famous peaches! Buttonwood's Rhone and Bordeaux varietal wines pair with each course.

To read more about Buttonwood Farm Winery & Vineyard, click here.

Il Porticciolo: Haute Cuisine in Italy's Lake District

If you ask an American if they know about the Lake District of Italy, the first thing they tend to mention is George Clooney. He's the most visible of the celebs who have homes on the shores of Lake Como. The largest and most picturesque city on that lake, Bellagio is the subject of many paintings, with its grand formal gardens, sun-dappled stairways and grandiose villas lining the shimmering water. In the summer, there are hordes of tourists soaking in the romantic atmosphere and hoping to catch a glimpse of the movie star in person.

But, if you're looking for a quieter place, more affordable, with the same breathtaking views of the Alps and limpid lake water, try Lake Maggiore. The most westerly of the lakes, it is on the border of the Piedmont and Lombardy regions and it provides a convenient base to explore the wine regions producing Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella, Dolcetto, Soave and Prosecco, among others. Lake Maggiore is laced with ferry routes, a fun way to see the art galleries of Stresa, the Swiss town of Locarno at the north end of the lake, the white peacocks and villas of the Borromean Islands, and other interesting locations. I've stayed twice in the Laveno area, which is home to the funicular that ends with a panoramic view of the lake and mountains--and to Il Porticciolo restaurant and hotel.

Hotel Ristorante Il Porticciolo is built nearly on the water. One can peer down from the lake-side rooms and see the waves lapping against the base of the hotel. I was there five years ago with a yoga group and we enjoyed the warm summer evenings on the restaurant patio overlooking the sparkling lights of the lake at night. The food was wonderfully fresh and innovative. Proprietor Giovanni Bassetti and his son Riccardo created delicate and flavorful entrees like lemon risotto and many types of lake fish in aromatic broths. When I returned this spring, I found that in the intervening years, Chef Riccardo had been in Paris working as Chef de Partie for the 3-star Michelin restaurant Le Maurice and as Premiere Chef de Partie for the world-renown Joel Robuchon at his L'Atelier Etoile.

Chef Riccardo returned with a new skill set for haute cuisine and is turning out fabulous food. His innovation continues, but with elevated technique. Two of my favorite dishes were Beet Gnocchi with Valcuvia Goat Cheese Snow; the Cream of Asparagus Soup with Egg, Parmesan Wafer and Joselito Ham; and the Cone of Chicken With Curry, Potato Puree and Caramelized Green Onion, which was plated to look like a landscape of path, boulder and pine tree. The cone-shaped chicken was coated with very finely minced parsley. Everything was hand-made, including the bread and lovely plate of miniature pastries.


Chef Riccardo has shared one of his recipes with me, seen below: Branzino With Leek and Clam Broth With Lime. The hotel has undergone extensive renovation and modernization. For information on their hotel or restaurant, visit their website: www.ilporticciolo.com

Branzino With Leek and Clam Broth With Lime
Chef Riccardo's recipe tantalizes the senses with aromatics and delicate flavor. Branzino is a European sea bass with a sweet and mild taste.

Ingredients For the Clam Juice

1 pint live clams

approximately 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves of garlic

approximately one bottle good white wine

4 tablespoons butter



Ingredients For the Branzino

2 Branzino fillets

1 lime, juice and zest

2 small leeks

1 cup clam juice (recipe above)

herb garnish: argula, green onion, chervil or dill
extra virgin olive oil for garnish

Directions For the Clam Juice

Clean the outside of the clams with a stiff brush and water and discard any that have opened. Coat the bottom of a large, deep pan with oil and turn the heat to medium low. Cut each clove of garlic in half and add to the pan, cook for a couple of minutes until browned. Add the clams, then cover them with the white wine. Cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook until the clams open.



When ready to use the clam juice, strain off one cup and pour into a small pot. Heat over low and add the butter, lime and zest. Stir until butter is melted and well mixed. Divide between two plates with raised rims, before plating the fish. Serve the clams as a side dish or save for future use.



Directions For the Branzino

Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil to cook the leeks until tender. At the same time, heat a steamer pot to steam the branzino--this should take about 12 minutes.

Place a cooked leek and branzino on each plate over the clam juice and garnish with aromatic herbs. Drizzle a bit of extra virgin olive oil over the top.

In Istanbul, Everything Is Possible

Two weeks before Taksim Square was used by protestors to demonstrate against Turkey's prime minister, our Celebrity cruise ship docked in this historic city on a Touring and Tasting's "Wine Festival at Sea" with Thacher Winery and Venteux Vineyards. I had some trepidation about traveling to an Islamic country, fearing Turkey might mirror the grim scenes of Anti-Americanism and civil unrest of Afghanistan and Egypt. But, bolstered by the rave reviews the destination received from friends, we stepped off our cruise ship for a day and a half port stay with a sense of excitement. The positive reports turned out to be true, but in retrospect, the civil unrest we read about later should not have been a surprise.

Cruise ships dock at the passenger terminal in Karaköy. It is a short walk from the bay called the Golden Horn which bisects the European side of Istanbul; the southern half of the city is on the Asian continent. Perpendicular to Golden Horn is the Bosphorus Strait that connects the Aegean Sea to the Black Sea. The view across the bay is the dramatic skyline etched with the rounded domes and pointed minarets of the Old Town.

To get there, we were determined to negotiate a one way taxi ride, then walk between the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace. Guidebooks warned that drivers would persist on negotiating a longer tour. As it turned out, our driver "Genghis" (‘Cengiz’ in Turkish) offered to be at our disposal for 3-4 hours for just 100 American dollars. With four of us sharing the cost, $25 apiece seemed like a good deal, plus it would save our aunt with a knee problem from a great deal of discomfort. It turned out to also save us a great deal of time.

After a stop at the fish market where the fish were so fresh some were leaping out of their buckets and flapping on the sidewalk, Genghis headed up the sinuous, one-way streets leading to the Blue Mosque. The traffic was horrendous, but the snail's pace gave us time to take in the bustling street scene of tourists and Turks, cafes, rug shops, jewelry stores, hotels and restaurants. Istanbul felt more cosmopolitan to us than Rome, with throngs of tourists from all parts of the world, including the Persian Gulf. Women in black abaya, and occasionally in the full coverup complete with burqa, were not uncommon--though most women were dressed in European style. Noteworthy was the cleanliness of the city. Unlike Athens or Rome, all the buildings were in good condition and every shop filled with enterprising shopkeepers. As testament to Turkey's economic growth, no storefronts sat empty.

We discovered Turks make good salesmen. All the ones we met were looking for a way to create some business for themselves or a friend, but in an extremely courteous and friendly manner. Without exception, we were impressed with everyone we encountered. We found that Genghis had arranged to have his friend Ahmed serve as our guide, at no additional charge, by walking us from one site to another. It was here that we found real value, as Ahmed miraculously led us to the front of each of the long lines at the entrances. When asked how it was possible to go in without waiting at the end of the line, he just smiled and said, "In Istanbul, everything is possible."

We marveled at the immensity of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, but fought the crowds inside the Topkapi Palace since Ahmed had not bought a ticket and was not at our side to insert us into the front. We missed seeing the jewels and precious objects in the Treasury as the line looked to be 30 minutes long, but saw the gorgeous tiled interiors of the rambling compound, including the Bagdad Kiosk with its spectacular mother-of-pearl and inlaid tortoise-shell walls.

We had the chance to pepper both Genghis and Ahmed with questions about Turkey. We learned that business is thriving and that both men own property and cars, thanks to working more than one job. Both complained about Prime Minister Erdoğan, saying they see themselves as "modern Muslims" who don't want to lose the freedoms they gained under their first president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. We saw many Turkish flags with a picture of Atatürk hung in shops and restaurants. Ahmed explained that "modern Muslims" are ones that believe in Allah, but don't participate in the daily calls to prayer. They are friendly with the West and want Turkey to remain progressive and modern. Sadly, Ahmed has a wife and child that are American citizens--her parents live in the US and the child was born in the US--but he cannot get a visa to visit them. As an American, I felt conflicted. With the recent Boston bombing, caution on the part of the State Department is understandable, yet I felt sympathetic with this affable, hardworking man.

By this time, we were all hungry for lunch. But, first, Genghis wanted us to see the rug shop of his friend. A hand-tied silk rug for just $2,000, DSL shipping included, sounded like a good deal. But, there were no takers and we went on to a restaurant for fish in the center of Old Town. The fish was not inexpensive--25 euros a plate, but it couldn't have been fresher or better.

The next stop was the Grand Bazaar, encompassing over 5,000 shops selling everything from pashmina scarves and jewelry to spices and water pipes. "Take a picture of the gate with your phone! If you get lost, show it to anyone.

They'll get you back here! I'll be waiting!", was the last thing I heard before we were swept up in a tidal wave of people funneling into the largest covered shopping complex in the world. At that moment, the arresting sound of daily prayer bounced off the walls. I was struck by the sheer volume and mesmerizing sound of the song. No one else seemed to even notice as we were squeezed in the entrance. The Bazaar's website says 250,000-400,000 people visit each day; imagine the population of a medium-sized city deciding all at once to go shopping and you will have an idea of  the size of the crowd. Inside, we found an array of shops with dazzling displays, but were fearful of losing our way, so limited our window shopping to the aisles near our entrance.

Afterwards, Genghis wanted to take us to the souvenir shop he runs with his family, but by then, most of the day was gone and our legs were tired. We had spent twice the amount of time negotiated, so we tipped him 50 dollars for his patience and good service. Back on the cruise ship, we traded stories about our day in Istanbul. Some had taken a tour, some rented a taxi, some walked from the European to the Asian part of the city. The sentiment was unanimous that, despite the crowds, Istanbul was the highlight of our cruise and everyone wanted to return.

The next morning, with just a few hours left in port, we struck out on our own and walked to the Spice Market and Rustem Pasha Mosque along the waterfront with gulls wheeling in the wind and a myriad of ferries and boats stirring up waves. Waiting for the Spice Market to open, we walked around the adjoining plant nursery admiring the piles of seeds. There many more piles of seeds inside the Spice Market, plus heaps of herbs, spices, salts, plus other shops with glittering jewelry and jewel-like lights. The shopkeepers do their best to entice customers in with sociable conversation: "Where are you from?", "Taste these dried figs.", "Have a taste of Turkish Delight."

Laden with vacuum-packed bags of spices, we stopped at a shish kebab place for a lovely lunch of lamb meatballs served over fried pita, with tomato sauce and yoghurt. We felt regretful as we walked up the gangplank to the ship, wishing our time in Turkey had been longer. It was heartening to be in an Islamic country and feel so welcomed and safe. We would have liked to see the modern part of Istanbul, with its upscale nightclubs and restaurants. As we sailed away from this vibrant and open city in a country that borders Syria, Iran and Iraq, we wondered about its future. Will a push towards fundamentalist Islam change the cordial atmosphere? Or will the demonstrations keep the government open and the city welcoming to the West? In Istanbul, everything is possible.

Turkish Meatballs in Tomato Sauce with Yoghurt

These tasty meatballs can be grilled or fried in a pan and are a perfect pairing for a rich Syrah. The crispy pita, sweet tomato, savory meatballs and tangy yoghurt create an unforgettable combination of flavors and textures.

Ingredients For the Meatballs
1 pound ground meat: beef or lamb or a mix of the two
1 cup bread crumbs
1 small onion, minced small
1 clove garlic, minced small
1 egg, beaten
1/3 bunch parsley, minced
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup flour
1 cup sunflower or olive oil, if frying

Ingredients For the Fried Pita
4 pita
olive or sunflower oil, about 1 cup, in parts

Ingredients For the Tomato Sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup minced onion
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
4 large, ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 bunch of parsley, minced
about 1 cup yoghurt, as garnish

Directions For the Meatballs
Mix together all the ingredients except the oil. Knead them together well. Wet palms of the hand with water and form small meatballs, press into discs. Sear on both sides on a grill or fry in a hot cast iron or heavy-bottomed frying pan until browned on both sides but not cooked all the way through--they will cook completely in the sauce.

Directions For the Fried Pita
Float a thin layer of oil in a cast iron or heavy-bottomed frying pan. Heat over medium low until the surface of the oil dimples when you tilt the pan, but not as hot as to let the oil smoke. Fry as many pita as will fit into your pan without overlapping, turning to cook both sides until light golden brown. Add more oil as needed to keep the thin layer of oil for frying. Drain on paper towels and chop into rough 2" squares.

Directions For the Tomato Sauce and Final Plating
In a pan over low heat, cook the onion in the olive oil until translucent. Add garlic and stir, then add the tomatoes and raise the heat to medium. Stir and cook for a few minutes, then add the tomato paste and sugar. Stir and add salt and pepper to taste. Add the meatballs and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Serve over fried pita and garnish with a dollop of plain yoghurt.

Serves 4. Pair with a rich Syrah.

At Home In Northern Italy: An Italian's Homecooking

Italians really know how to eat! It's not just the food--though it starts there, beginning with excellent produce: ripe red tomatoes dripping with sweet juice, perfect basil, asparagus, wheat, broad beans and other wholesome vegetables raised in the mineral-rich soil. (Much of Italy was watery some 100 million years ago, being under the ocean floor receiving layers of calcium carbonate deposits before the land was lifted and crunched up against the European continental plate.) Parmesan cheese, prosciutto, Parma ham, balsamic vinegar, and Italy's extra virgin olive oil are known the world over for their quality. Give these to a great cook, add extended family, friends, some local wines, a classic setting--say a long table under a string of lights outside on a warm, fragrant evening--plus conversation in abundant servings and you have yourself a real Italian meal.

My Italian friend Luciana is a terrific cook. Out of her kitchen emerge delicious foods. In fact, it was after a superb meal at her place near Lago Maggiore five years ago that I started blogging about food and travel. (See her recipe for Tuna Mousse from my first visit) I had the chance to visit with her again last month on Italy's Labor Day and she prepared a lovely meal to be shared with her family--including "il più' bello zio nel mondo", as he introduced himself ("the best looking uncle in the world"). Family dinners in Italy last for hours because Italians take the time to converse and enjoy the food and wine. (The longest meal I experienced in Italy was 5 1/2 hours long--but that's a subject for another blog post).

"Frittura di paranza" is mix of small fishes washed but left whole, dusted with flour, deep-fried, then sprinkled with lemon, salt and pepper. Luciana had bought baby fish from the Mediterranean: triglia di scoglio which is a reef mullet and gamberetti--tiny shrimp. Clams and mussels were stirred into a sauce for pasta; raw artichokes were trimmed, soaked in water and lemon juice, very thinly sliced and dressed for a raw salad (Tuna Mousse recipe); bread was rubbed with garlic and topped with tomatoes, olive oil and balsamic; and a cheese plate prepared with a quartet of artisanal cheese, including tallegio, mozzarella, and Parmesan. On this beautiful day, we enjoyed a leisurely meal, lingering with a dessert of an ice cream cake covered with meringue and little cups of aromatic Vin Santo served with biscotti.

Families are close in Italy, often living under one roof. Luciana's parents live in the house next door, on a property that includes her father's workshop. Gianfranco Caporali and Luciana's partner Uli, who is learning from the master, create fabulous works in wood: custom cabinetry and "paintings" with intricate wood inlay. Her father has also made three one-of-a-kind cars of wood. These miraculous creations are fully functional. The chassis and engine are the original metal components, but all the accessories like the sunshades, mirror holders, sunroof frame, hubcaps and steering wheel are all crafted from wood. If you are traveling to the lake district of Italy, stop by the little town of Cittiglio to see his creations. His shop is open every day.

Visit www.labottegadicaporali.it (website in Italian, but email inquiries answered in English)
See Luciana's Tuna Mousse recipe.
See Luciana's Artichoke Salad recipe.