In Istanbul, Everything Is Possible

Two weeks before Taksim Square was used by protestors to demonstrate against Turkey's prime minister, our Celebrity cruise ship docked in this historic city on a Touring and Tasting's "Wine Festival at Sea" with Thacher Winery and Venteux Vineyards. I had some trepidation about traveling to an Islamic country, fearing Turkey might mirror the grim scenes of Anti-Americanism and civil unrest of Afghanistan and Egypt. But, bolstered by the rave reviews the destination received from friends, we stepped off our cruise ship for a day and a half port stay with a sense of excitement. The positive reports turned out to be true, but in retrospect, the civil unrest we read about later should not have been a surprise.

Cruise ships dock at the passenger terminal in Karaköy. It is a short walk from the bay called the Golden Horn which bisects the European side of Istanbul; the southern half of the city is on the Asian continent. Perpendicular to Golden Horn is the Bosphorus Strait that connects the Aegean Sea to the Black Sea. The view across the bay is the dramatic skyline etched with the rounded domes and pointed minarets of the Old Town.

To get there, we were determined to negotiate a one way taxi ride, then walk between the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace. Guidebooks warned that drivers would persist on negotiating a longer tour. As it turned out, our driver "Genghis" (‘Cengiz’ in Turkish) offered to be at our disposal for 3-4 hours for just 100 American dollars. With four of us sharing the cost, $25 apiece seemed like a good deal, plus it would save our aunt with a knee problem from a great deal of discomfort. It turned out to also save us a great deal of time.

After a stop at the fish market where the fish were so fresh some were leaping out of their buckets and flapping on the sidewalk, Genghis headed up the sinuous, one-way streets leading to the Blue Mosque. The traffic was horrendous, but the snail's pace gave us time to take in the bustling street scene of tourists and Turks, cafes, rug shops, jewelry stores, hotels and restaurants. Istanbul felt more cosmopolitan to us than Rome, with throngs of tourists from all parts of the world, including the Persian Gulf. Women in black abaya, and occasionally in the full coverup complete with burqa, were not uncommon--though most women were dressed in European style. Noteworthy was the cleanliness of the city. Unlike Athens or Rome, all the buildings were in good condition and every shop filled with enterprising shopkeepers. As testament to Turkey's economic growth, no storefronts sat empty.

We discovered Turks make good salesmen. All the ones we met were looking for a way to create some business for themselves or a friend, but in an extremely courteous and friendly manner. Without exception, we were impressed with everyone we encountered. We found that Genghis had arranged to have his friend Ahmed serve as our guide, at no additional charge, by walking us from one site to another. It was here that we found real value, as Ahmed miraculously led us to the front of each of the long lines at the entrances. When asked how it was possible to go in without waiting at the end of the line, he just smiled and said, "In Istanbul, everything is possible."

We marveled at the immensity of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, but fought the crowds inside the Topkapi Palace since Ahmed had not bought a ticket and was not at our side to insert us into the front. We missed seeing the jewels and precious objects in the Treasury as the line looked to be 30 minutes long, but saw the gorgeous tiled interiors of the rambling compound, including the Bagdad Kiosk with its spectacular mother-of-pearl and inlaid tortoise-shell walls.

We had the chance to pepper both Genghis and Ahmed with questions about Turkey. We learned that business is thriving and that both men own property and cars, thanks to working more than one job. Both complained about Prime Minister Erdoğan, saying they see themselves as "modern Muslims" who don't want to lose the freedoms they gained under their first president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. We saw many Turkish flags with a picture of Atatürk hung in shops and restaurants. Ahmed explained that "modern Muslims" are ones that believe in Allah, but don't participate in the daily calls to prayer. They are friendly with the West and want Turkey to remain progressive and modern. Sadly, Ahmed has a wife and child that are American citizens--her parents live in the US and the child was born in the US--but he cannot get a visa to visit them. As an American, I felt conflicted. With the recent Boston bombing, caution on the part of the State Department is understandable, yet I felt sympathetic with this affable, hardworking man.

By this time, we were all hungry for lunch. But, first, Genghis wanted us to see the rug shop of his friend. A hand-tied silk rug for just $2,000, DSL shipping included, sounded like a good deal. But, there were no takers and we went on to a restaurant for fish in the center of Old Town. The fish was not inexpensive--25 euros a plate, but it couldn't have been fresher or better.

The next stop was the Grand Bazaar, encompassing over 5,000 shops selling everything from pashmina scarves and jewelry to spices and water pipes. "Take a picture of the gate with your phone! If you get lost, show it to anyone.

They'll get you back here! I'll be waiting!", was the last thing I heard before we were swept up in a tidal wave of people funneling into the largest covered shopping complex in the world. At that moment, the arresting sound of daily prayer bounced off the walls. I was struck by the sheer volume and mesmerizing sound of the song. No one else seemed to even notice as we were squeezed in the entrance. The Bazaar's website says 250,000-400,000 people visit each day; imagine the population of a medium-sized city deciding all at once to go shopping and you will have an idea of  the size of the crowd. Inside, we found an array of shops with dazzling displays, but were fearful of losing our way, so limited our window shopping to the aisles near our entrance.

Afterwards, Genghis wanted to take us to the souvenir shop he runs with his family, but by then, most of the day was gone and our legs were tired. We had spent twice the amount of time negotiated, so we tipped him 50 dollars for his patience and good service. Back on the cruise ship, we traded stories about our day in Istanbul. Some had taken a tour, some rented a taxi, some walked from the European to the Asian part of the city. The sentiment was unanimous that, despite the crowds, Istanbul was the highlight of our cruise and everyone wanted to return.

The next morning, with just a few hours left in port, we struck out on our own and walked to the Spice Market and Rustem Pasha Mosque along the waterfront with gulls wheeling in the wind and a myriad of ferries and boats stirring up waves. Waiting for the Spice Market to open, we walked around the adjoining plant nursery admiring the piles of seeds. There many more piles of seeds inside the Spice Market, plus heaps of herbs, spices, salts, plus other shops with glittering jewelry and jewel-like lights. The shopkeepers do their best to entice customers in with sociable conversation: "Where are you from?", "Taste these dried figs.", "Have a taste of Turkish Delight."

Laden with vacuum-packed bags of spices, we stopped at a shish kebab place for a lovely lunch of lamb meatballs served over fried pita, with tomato sauce and yoghurt. We felt regretful as we walked up the gangplank to the ship, wishing our time in Turkey had been longer. It was heartening to be in an Islamic country and feel so welcomed and safe. We would have liked to see the modern part of Istanbul, with its upscale nightclubs and restaurants. As we sailed away from this vibrant and open city in a country that borders Syria, Iran and Iraq, we wondered about its future. Will a push towards fundamentalist Islam change the cordial atmosphere? Or will the demonstrations keep the government open and the city welcoming to the West? In Istanbul, everything is possible.

Turkish Meatballs in Tomato Sauce with Yoghurt

These tasty meatballs can be grilled or fried in a pan and are a perfect pairing for a rich Syrah. The crispy pita, sweet tomato, savory meatballs and tangy yoghurt create an unforgettable combination of flavors and textures.

Ingredients For the Meatballs
1 pound ground meat: beef or lamb or a mix of the two
1 cup bread crumbs
1 small onion, minced small
1 clove garlic, minced small
1 egg, beaten
1/3 bunch parsley, minced
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup flour
1 cup sunflower or olive oil, if frying

Ingredients For the Fried Pita
4 pita
olive or sunflower oil, about 1 cup, in parts

Ingredients For the Tomato Sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup minced onion
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
4 large, ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 bunch of parsley, minced
about 1 cup yoghurt, as garnish

Directions For the Meatballs
Mix together all the ingredients except the oil. Knead them together well. Wet palms of the hand with water and form small meatballs, press into discs. Sear on both sides on a grill or fry in a hot cast iron or heavy-bottomed frying pan until browned on both sides but not cooked all the way through--they will cook completely in the sauce.

Directions For the Fried Pita
Float a thin layer of oil in a cast iron or heavy-bottomed frying pan. Heat over medium low until the surface of the oil dimples when you tilt the pan, but not as hot as to let the oil smoke. Fry as many pita as will fit into your pan without overlapping, turning to cook both sides until light golden brown. Add more oil as needed to keep the thin layer of oil for frying. Drain on paper towels and chop into rough 2" squares.

Directions For the Tomato Sauce and Final Plating
In a pan over low heat, cook the onion in the olive oil until translucent. Add garlic and stir, then add the tomatoes and raise the heat to medium. Stir and cook for a few minutes, then add the tomato paste and sugar. Stir and add salt and pepper to taste. Add the meatballs and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Serve over fried pita and garnish with a dollop of plain yoghurt.

Serves 4. Pair with a rich Syrah.