Rolling out of Tetsuya's after a 3 1/2 hour meal...

 TripAdvisor is a great resource for finding good accommodations and restaurants, particularly overseas where one can't rely on local blogs and restaurant reviews online (or can't read them if they are in a language one doesn't know). The TripAdvisor reviews for Tetsuya's in Sydney range from rapturous to denigrating--but Tetsuya's has been on Restaurant magazine's Top 50 world restaurants for eight years, so it has to be on a foodie's list of must-try eateries. Charlie Trotter eloquently praised Chef Tetsuya: "Tetsuya is part of an elite group of international chefs that has influenced other chefs through their personal styles and unique approaches to food. His culinary philosophy centres on pure, clean flavours that are decisive, yet completely refined. His amazing technique, Asian heritage, sincere humility, worldwide travels and insatiable curiosity combine to create incredible, soulful dishes that exude passion in every bite." The restaurant feels more like a modern art museum than a dining establishment--refined but not warm. The service, however, was impeccable on the day we ate at Tetsuya's: it began with the waiter asking if we had any food allergies or dislikes (I wish every place catered to their clientele to this degree!) and the ten course degustation menu was adapted for my preference for seafood/no meat and no sweet dessert. (My daughter, on the other hand, had the set menu complete with THREE dessert courses). I wanted the chance to sample Aussie wines, so asked for the wine pairings. Here was the menu for our glorious experience:

amuse bouche:  
Warm Chestnut Soup

Served in a tiny teacup, this satisfying soup was a delight, rich with chestnut flavor and with a lovely, creamy mouth-feel. We wanted to retain each spoonful in our mouths as long as possible and scrape up every bit with the tiny teaspoon.

first course:  

Sashimi Of Kingfish with Blackbean and Orange

The Kingfish was marinated in a sesame oil and soy sauce dressing with very finely sliced green onion, the freshness of the fish not masked but enhanced by the sauce.

The two items above served with a chilled glass of light, fragrant Tamanohikari Sake.

second course:
New Zealand Scampi Tails With Goat Curd and Soft Tofu

The scampi was raw, its delicate flavor making interesting combinations with that of the curd and silken tofu.
served with the aromatic 2002 Tyrrells Vat 1 Semillion


 

third course:

Confit Petuna Ocean Trout With Konbu, Celery and Apple

Chef Tetsuya's signature dish; tender trout crusted with the finest brunoise possible of konbu; the apple was julienned and cooked like a vegetable but with a controlled amount of apple tartness to offset the rich trout.

served with the 2009 Massena 'The Surly Muse' Viognier--the wine I liked the best of the meal; it was not the usual Viognier but lively and minerally acidic with flavors and aromas of peach and lychee.

fourth course:  
Grilled Fillet of Barramundi With Braised Wood Ear and Chestnut Mushrooms

Barramundi became my favorite fish in Australia. It's a saltwater perch (family Latidae) with a texture like mahi-mahi and a skin that crisps nicely on the grill. A self-serve salad of baby greens with balsalmic vinegrette was added to the table at this point.
served with the 2009 Mountadam Pinot Gris

fifth course:  

Potato and Goat Curd Tortellini With Basil Vinagrette (vegetarian)

Braised Oxtail with Sea Cucumber and Porcini (standard menu)

A perfect portion of rich pasta bites with a herbed, slightly tart dressing; my teen actually liked the gelatinous sea cucumber with the beefy oxtail.

served with the 2004 Torbreck Grenache

sixth course:  Yellow Bellied Flounder With Smoked Mustard (vegetarian)
Twice-Cooked De-Boned Spatchcock With Manjimup Truffle and Barley Risotto (standard)

The crunchy mustard seed sauce was a nice contrast with the preceding soft-textured dishes; the fish skin was cracklingly crisp. Manjimup is a town near Perth which has a climate similar to French truffle growing areas. Besides being a truffle producing region, Pink Lady apples were developed here.
served with 2008 Tapanappa 'Foggy Hill Vineyard' Pinot Noir

seventh course: 

Grilled Fillet of Snapper With Wasabi and Sea Urchin Butter (vegetarian)

Grass Fed Tasmanian Angus Beef With Swiss Browns and Porcini (standard)

The sea urchin butter was out of this world! The report on the beef and mushrooms were that they were outstanding as well.

served with the 2003 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon

eighth course: 
Cheese Plate with Comte, Livarot, Valdeon and Edith Ash Cheeses (me)
Pear Sorbet With Bread and Butter Pudding (standard)

The Edith Ash is a local goat's milk cheese with surface white mold and an inner runny layer--fabulous! The Livarot is such a pungent cheese with a "barnyard" odor--maybe not such a good choice with a subtly flavored meal.

ninth course:

Cannelini Beans With Marscapone and Soy Caramel

Sounds like an unlikely combination, but it worked well--who knew beans could be so good in a dessert?

tenth course: Macaron With Creme Anglaise
Light and citrusy, perfect finish.

The only detraction for me in this amazing meal at Tetsuya's, was that I was not bowled over by the Aussie wine. But, I am spoiled by living in Santa Barbara with terrific local wines, plus I work for a wine company where I can buy wine at a discount from the finest wineries, including Paso Robles, Sonoma and Napa. I think our US wines, in the same price category as the ones served with this meal, are clearly superior--sorry Australia! Well, except for the Massena Viognier, I think our wines are better--but the availability of quality seafood across the spectrum of restaurants is better in Australia, so we have something to learn from them (see post on Aussie seafood).
We were replete by the time the last course arrived; I asked for a doggie bag to take home the delectable cheese. The waiter was astonished--during the course of our time in Australia we discovered that diners do not take home food--but found a container for us. At the coat check, we were met with more astonishment at the sight of the container. I felt like we'd been caught lifting their silverware! We were educated later in our journey that Australian laws forbid taking home food served and not consumed, for food safety reasons. If you want "take away" of freshly prepared, never served food, you usually have to pay extra for the convenience.