Thursday, July 12, 2012
Travel Tips for Touring Sonoma County
Five Essential Tools To Become A Better Cook
To be a good cook, five tools are essential. Use all five of them in your kitchen: your senses of smell, sight, hearing, touch and taste, and you will quickly begin to improve your cooking! Beginning cooks rely on recipes for cooking times, which can be a disaster. The reason for this is that most ovens are mis-calibrated and have hot and cool spots. Also, stoves vary wildly in temperature--a medium low setting on an old range could be 220 degrees, whereas medium low on a 15,000 Btu Wolf range could be over 260 degrees. You can see how using a recipe's cooking time as an absolute can lead to undercooked or overcooked food.
Instead, use your senses to determine when something is cooked properly. While baking bread, notice the aromas that emanate from the oven. With practice, you can smell when your bread is ready. Cultivate this ability by using the traditional methods to determine when bread is finished (a golden brown crust, an internal thermometer temperature of 190 - 200 degrees, or a hollow sound when the bread is thumped) along with your sensory experience during the cooking process. Remember the aroma of perfectly cooked bread--and next time you will know when the bread is done.
Your sense of hearing can be a powerful tool. Have you ever cooked meat that stuck to the pan, even though it was greased? Chances are, you did not hear a sizzle when the meat hit the pan, because the pan wasn't hot enough. Heating a pan correctly for a sear, whether meat or fish, relies on your senses of sight and touch. Hold your hand an inch above the surface of the oiled pan when it first goes on the stove. Notice there is just a bit of warmth. Tilt the pan and notice that the oil runs smoothly across the bottom. As the pan heats, continue to feel the heat above it. At some point, when you tilt the pan, the oil will run across the bottom in waves, so the surface looks dimpled instead of smooth--this is the sign the pan is hot enough. Hold your hand an inch above the pan again and remember the sensation of heat--you can use this memory the next time you cook. Lay the meat or fish on the hot pan and hear that satisfying sizzle!
Your sense of touch will tell you when a steak is cooked, without needing to cut into it (though you can--just to check!). Make a fist, with your thumb inside your palm and squeeze tight. Touch the area shown in the photo--that is the feeling of a well done steak. Release all the fingers except the index and thumb. Touch again--this is medium rare. Relax the hand apart--touch and feel the softness of raw meat. Try this next time you cook steak--touch the steak, then touch your hand in the appropriate configuration and see if this simple sensory guide works!
Your sense of taste is obviously the most important tool in the kitchen. Pity the unfortunate ones who "eat everything" and are just as satisfied with bland food as spiced, with junk food as gourmet cuisine--they will never be great cooks! If you want to be a good cook, be a discriminating eater--notice the difference between food you eat that is ok versus fabulous and use your senses to decide why you like something so much. Is it the herbs in the dish? The smell of the food? A crunchy sound? The way it looks on the plate? Use vision, smell, taste, touch and hearing to experience what you eat--then use those memories to recreate the experience in your own kitchen. Come to your senses and delicious food will follow!
Instead, use your senses to determine when something is cooked properly. While baking bread, notice the aromas that emanate from the oven. With practice, you can smell when your bread is ready. Cultivate this ability by using the traditional methods to determine when bread is finished (a golden brown crust, an internal thermometer temperature of 190 - 200 degrees, or a hollow sound when the bread is thumped) along with your sensory experience during the cooking process. Remember the aroma of perfectly cooked bread--and next time you will know when the bread is done.
Focaccia With Pesto and Fresh Tomatoes:
Ingredients For the Pesto:
2 cups packed fresh basil leaves, stems removed
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano
1/4 cup pine nuts
3 tablespoons minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
Ingredients For the Focaccia Dough
4 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
1 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups cold water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Other Ingredients:
spray olive oil
2 medium tomatoes, sliced thinly and drained on paper towels
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano
Directions For the Pesto:
1 Pulse the basil and pine nuts together in a food processor for a few seconds. Add the garlic, and pulse a few more.
Add the olive oil and process for a few minutes--you would like the pesto to remain a bit chunky and not be pureed smooth. Add the grated cheese, salt and pepper and pulse until just blended.
Directions For the Dough:
The day before, put all the ingredients, except the olive oil, in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix with the paddle attachment on slow speed for a couple of minutes. Add the olive oil and mix for a minute. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes. Mix for one minute more. The dough will be soft and shaggy. Use a spatula or bowl scraper dipped in water to scrape the wet dough in an oiled bowl that is more than twice as tall as the level of the dough. Cover the top with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator.
The next day, take the dough out 4 hours before you want to bake the bread. (The dough can be in the refrigerator 12 - 18 hours.) The dough will have doubled overnight. Spread a sheet of baking parchment on a large baking sheet and spray it all over with olive oil. Scrape the dough onto the baking sheet using moistened tools and gently spread into a rectangular shape. Spray a bit of olive oil on your fingers and on the top of the dough. and dimple the bread--start in the middle and press your fingers into the dough, then pull them out a bit to the side. In this way, you will stretch out the dough in the pan as you dimple it. Don't' worry yet if it is not fitting in the pan exactly or is not symmetrical--further steps will start to even it out. Let the dough rest for 20 minutes.
Once again go through the dimpling process again, starting in the middle and moving outwards. Let rest 20 minutes and repeat. During the dimpling process, even and shape the dough so it almost fills the pan and is rectangular. Let rise for 2 hours. During this time, preheat the oven to 425 degrees (375 with convection).
Bake the focaccia in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and dot chunks of pesto over it, then top with the tomato slices. (Do not put the pesto or tomatoes on at the beginning or they will burn.) Rotate the pan and put it back in the oven for another 10 minutes until it is starting to be golden brown. Remove and sprinkle with the Parmesan, then bake until the cheese is melted, just a minute or two. Let cool a few minutes before slicing into squares.
Saturday, July 7, 2012
Touring & Tasting and Santa Barbara Wine Festival
Tuesday, July 3, 2012
I Left My Heart In San Francisco--But Took Home A Few Pounds--A Family Vacation
We had one more day in SF before the drive home, so had a creamy pureed parsnip and kale soup at the chic Oolah near the Moscone Center. They use local, sustainable produce and the salmon on a bed of ratatouille was perfectly cooked. We had a very short turn through the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit at the de Young Museum--I wish we'd had another couple of hours. The haute couture outfits are all made by hand--taking hundreds of hours of work each. It's a ridiculously decadent world the designer lives in. But, seen as pieces of art, it's fascinating to see what a creative mind can do to stretch the idea of clothing to the extreme, when given unlimited funding.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Chef Marcel Vigneron's Dragon Breath
Chef Marcel Vigneron has dragon's breath! Not BAD breath, dragon's breath: a white stream of smoke is streaming from his nostrils and mouth. The occasion is the first Guest Chef Dinner at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery in Paso Robles. Chef Vigneron, who wowed us with his molecular gastronomy on
Bravo's cooking show Top Chef is proving to me that my mouth won't be "burned" by eating the crispy wild rice and sugar appetizers rolled in liquid nitrogen. Instead I experienced a light shock of coldness, the crisp
taste of sugar, then "smoke" streamed from my nose.
Molecular gastronomy is fun! It is the marriage of
science and food creating novel forms and textures, such as beet foam,
spherical noodles, or powdered olive oil. You can trace its origins to the Hungarian physicist Nicholas Kurti and French physical chemist Harvé This who held "Molecular and Physical Gastronomy" meetings with chefs to demonstrate new techniques like making meringue in a vacuum chamber. Ferran Adrià gained worldwide fame from his molecular gastronomy at El Bulli, said to be the best restaurant in the world before it closed in 2011.
After appetizers that included mini "ice cream cones" filled with goat cheese
and grapes, bitty potatoes that looked liked rocks with dill crème
fraiche, oysters with foam and the aromatic 2011 JUSTIN Chardonnay,
JUSTIN founder Justin Baldwin invited the guests into the cavernous 30,000 sq. ft.
barrel room, made intimate and romantic with candles, for the gourmet
meal. He introduced each course with an explanation of the pairing,
saying "what we are striving to make here are food friendly wines."
JUSTIN brought worldwide recognition to the Paso Robles viticultural
region in 2000 when their Bordeaux blend ISOSCELES was named one of the
top 10 wines in the world by Wine Spectator. They have consistently
garnered top ratings and praise for their wines, including Wine
Enthusiast's "Top Cabernet and Blended Wine Producers List" for seven
years running and their tasting room has been my favorite in Paso Robles, both for their terrific wines and for the friendly staff.
The dinner benefited Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution
Day.
Jamie Oliver is the intrepid Brit leading the charge to change
school lunch programs and how we cook in our kitchens, saying "For the
first time in history, being overweight is killing more people than
being underweight, and at least 2.8 million adults around the world die
each year as a result of being overweight or obese…We need to become a
conscious community and understand the food choices we make on a daily
basis, which includes making food fresh from scratch and avoiding junk
food." Food Revolution events were held in 660 cities in 63 countries on
May 19th to improve the way we eat and combat obesity. Learn how to cook seasonally with locally sourced organic food! It's better for you and your family and better for our planet.
We enjoyed the 2011 JUSTIN Sauvignon Blanc with a light, slightly
foamed, chilled pea soup with vanilla cured salmon and a tangy pickled
radish. Compressed cucumber gave he dish texture and Meyer Lemon Puree
added a bright note. The luscious 2009 JUSTIN Reserve Tempranillo was
paired with steamed halibut and Portuguese sausage cooked in "Crazy
Water": an Italian broth. "Acqua Pazza" is traditionally made from
cherry tomatoes, water (sometimes seawater), salt, olive oil and
sometimes the seeds, stems and pomace left after pressing grapes for
wine.
JUSTIN's flagship wine, the ISOSCELES was paired with slow roasted
veal, not something I normally eat, but it was fantastic. The au jus,
made with ISOSCELES, was irresistible, deep, rich and complex. The
flavor-infused morels were out-of-this-world fantastic. Dessert, served
with the 2010 JUSTIN OBTUSE, was a flourless hazelnut chocolate cake
with a coconut espuma. Espuma is a molecular gastronomy technique where a
natural ingredient (like coconut milk) is mixed with a stabilizing
agent such as agar or lecithin, then extruded through a whipped cream
canister charged with nitrous oxide. The result was a purely flavored
foam of coconut with a slight crust. The creamy pudding of roasted
banana and peanut butter had a wonderful texture and pronounced flavor
of ripe banana.
My friend who accompanied me to the dinner is a vegetarian and she was
accommodated by the chefs with a special vegetarian option. Her second
course was a delicious risotto that had a foam incorporated into it and
had baby carrots as a side. Her third course was a riff on the classic
Northern Italian dish of asparagus and egg that had the warm morels that
were also part of our veal dish. The egg was obviously farm-fresh with a
deep orange yolk cooked au point.
Not only were the food and wine top-notch, but JUSTIN accomplished
something that is not easy to do: to create an evening that was elegant
and sophisticated, yet warm and familial. The fabulous food and wine,
the personal touch of the founder, the friendliness of the staff, and
the impressive setting created a magical evening. As we walked away from
the convivial lights of the winery, the night sky was inky black and
thick with stars. Our only regret after a perfect evening was that we
were not one of the fortunate guests who had booked a stay in one of
JUSTIN's luxury suites and would not be having breakfast there as the
morning sun brightened the surrounding vineyards.
JUSTIN
is the only winery in the Central Coast to have a full-time chef
creating in-house wine pairing recipes. Executive Chef Will Torres
creates locally sourced cuisine in the Restaurant at JUSTIN and works
with guest chefs in the winery's series of dinners. Past celebrity chefs
include the “Iron Chef America” winner Chef Kent Rathbun and James
Beard Award-winner Chef Barbara Lynch.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Fresh Local and Sustainable
As a child, I coveted the processed foods other kids had at their homes. I wanted the boxed macaroni and cheese, the Koolaid, the canned Campbell's soups. My mother bought fresh produce and meats and cooked--and expected us to cook--from scratch. Now, of course, I'm grateful for the good start she gave us toward a lifetime of healthy eating. Society has caught up with the philosophy of eating local, sustainable and organic (when possible) food made from fresh, seasonal ingredients with even golf courses--the last bastion of traditional grill food like burgers--starting to offer veggie burgers and salads with nary a trace of iceberg lettuce.
Touring and Tasting and Buttonwood Farm Winery were among the many local businesses donating products (in our case--wine!) and time to the Santa Barbara Culinary dinner last night benefiting the Julia Child Scholarship for students at the SBCC School of Culinary Arts. Santa Barbara Culinary is a group of culinary professionals--caterers, restauranteurs, farmers, etc. and food afficionados who meet monthly for a wonderful dinner created around a theme. This month's theme was local bounty sourced from local and sustainable food producers. Bonnie Crouse has the monumental job of overseeing all procurement of food, equipment and supplies and budget management for the University of California at Santa Barbara, so last night's gala event must have been a walk in the park! More than a decade ago, Bonnie started bringing the locavore philosophy to the University--working to support local farmers, ranchers and fishermen (and women) by buying locally, with the added benefit of improving the freshness of the ingredients used for student and faculty.
We feasted on olives and cheeses from Olivos Del Mar, beef sliders and BBQ organic chicken from DeyDey's Best Beef Ever, halibut with miso ginger marinade and black cod with arugula pesto from Santa Barbara Fish Market, grilled asparagus and legume and fresh vegetable salad from Farmer Direct Produce, organic salad from Shepherd Farms, and luscious berries with Champagne-honey sabayon from The Berry Man who also donated this amazing gift basket won by raffle. UCSB Executive Chef Jaime Herrera and his team created a culinary tour de force with the fresh produce, meat and seafood.
Touring and Tasting poured Rack & Riddle Brut sparkling wine for a starter and Becky, the new marketing manager at Buttonwood Farm Winery, brought four of their lovely wines: two Sauvignon Blanc, a Malbec and a Cabernet Franc. I loved the 2010 Zingy--100% Sauvignon Blanc that was hand-harvested and slow, cold fermented, yielding a crisp, bright wine with citrus and peach flavors. The 2010 Signature Blend Sauvignon Blanc was blended with aromatic Semillon. Malo-lactic fermentation gives it a creamy texture and, though the citrus is still evident, tropical flavors of guava and passionfruit are predominant. Anyone who finds Argentinian Malbec too rugged will love the
Buttonwood 2009 Malbec which has a velvety texture. It's still a bold wine with structure and jammy flavors, but without any rough edges. My favorite was the 2008 Cabernet Franc. The vintage notes remind us that 2008 was an odd year for weather with the coldest spring in 25 years. Their crop was less than half the normal volume, but the smaller quantity was carefully hand-harvested and field sorted. Cabernet Franc is one of the grapes used to blend traditional Bordeaux and has a medium body and aromatic nose. The Buttonwood Cabernet Franc was well-balanced with a minerally touch to the mix of fruit flavors.
Buttonwood Farm Winery fit perfectly into the evening's theme of local and sustainable as the founder, Betty Williams, was a proponent of organic farming long before it became fashionable. Buttonwood continues to be a careful steward of their land, using organic techniques and tending the vineyards by hand. Buttonwood also produces more than wine: peach salsa, Cabernet chocolate sauce, olive oil, Sauvignon Blanc jelly and other delectable items. The Buttonwood Farm is a destination--not just a tasting room. I missed their farm tours during April's Earth Month On the Farm, but I see they have a Crawfish Boil coming up on May 19th -- crawfish + Buttonwood wines = a winning combination!
Buttonwood Farm Winery fit perfectly into the evening's theme of local and sustainable as the founder, Betty Williams, was a proponent of organic farming long before it became fashionable. Buttonwood continues to be a careful steward of their land, using organic techniques and tending the vineyards by hand. Buttonwood also produces more than wine: peach salsa, Cabernet chocolate sauce, olive oil, Sauvignon Blanc jelly and other delectable items. The Buttonwood Farm is a destination--not just a tasting room. I missed their farm tours during April's Earth Month On the Farm, but I see they have a Crawfish Boil coming up on May 19th -- crawfish + Buttonwood wines = a winning combination!
Monday, April 23, 2012
Hot and Tasty
As the Culinary Institute of America's wine book Exploring Wine states, "The dedicated farmers and producers of Santa Barbara County set a high benchmark for California wines". Indeed they do! The comedy "Sideways" may have helped bring recognition to the area, but it has been the quality of the wines that have piqued the interest of the wine writers, like Robert Parker, Jr. who said, "No viticultural region in America has demonstrated as much progress in quality and potential for greatness as the Central Coast, with its Rhône varietals, and the Santa Barbara region, where the Burgundian varietals Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted in its cooler climates." He predicts our wine "will rule America". Wow. But, our wineries weren't polishing up their "I am king of the world" speeches over the weekend, they were pouring wine at the Santa Barbara County Vintner's Association Festival--the highlight of their four-day spring celebration of Santa Barbara wines.

Unfortunately, the capricious weather gave us a mini-heat wave and the gorgeous blue sky drove the sunlight unrelentingly on our heads. So, I ended up drinking water rather than wine as my baked tongue couldn't evaluate the wines and everything tasted "cooked" to my overheated palate. The exception was Palmina's Barbera. I have my own theory (unsubstantiated other than personal observation) that while other reds start to turn the day after being opened, Barbera stays fresh and sometimes even gets better after three days in an open bottle. Once again, the sturdy Italian varietal showed its mettle by holding up and tasting delicious, even in oven-like conditions. Summation: the next time I'm invited to a BYOB in the desert--I'll bring a Barbera.
I spent the afternoon stuffing myself with all the tasty tidbits being given out by local restaurants, like the calamari salad from Root 246 and luscious meatballs from Trattoria Grappolo and people-watching, which is always a fun activity at any wine tasting. There are some who come to sip wines, some who come to guzzle, some dressed to the nines and looking for singles, some just to have a nice day outdoors with friends, then this group looking like lions in a National Geographic photo, draped on the oak tree seeking shade.

Unfortunately, the capricious weather gave us a mini-heat wave and the gorgeous blue sky drove the sunlight unrelentingly on our heads. So, I ended up drinking water rather than wine as my baked tongue couldn't evaluate the wines and everything tasted "cooked" to my overheated palate. The exception was Palmina's Barbera. I have my own theory (unsubstantiated other than personal observation) that while other reds start to turn the day after being opened, Barbera stays fresh and sometimes even gets better after three days in an open bottle. Once again, the sturdy Italian varietal showed its mettle by holding up and tasting delicious, even in oven-like conditions. Summation: the next time I'm invited to a BYOB in the desert--I'll bring a Barbera.
I spent the afternoon stuffing myself with all the tasty tidbits being given out by local restaurants, like the calamari salad from Root 246 and luscious meatballs from Trattoria Grappolo and people-watching, which is always a fun activity at any wine tasting. There are some who come to sip wines, some who come to guzzle, some dressed to the nines and looking for singles, some just to have a nice day outdoors with friends, then this group looking like lions in a National Geographic photo, draped on the oak tree seeking shade.
Labels:
Barbera,
Santa Barbara wines,
SB Vintners' Festival
Location:
Santa Barbara, CA, USA
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